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Chierichetti, David. Edith Head: The Life and Times of Hollywood's Celebrated Costume Designer. New York: Harper Collins Publishers, 2003.
 
 
Edith Head, one of the most important and successful costume designers of 20th-century Hollywood during her time at Paramount, originally worked with Audrey Hepburn on 1953’s Roman Holiday. Though she had never been fond of Hepburn’s shape and body type, it was assumed that Head would outfit the still-unknown actress in Sabrina, her next film. As Chierichetti recounts, Head was shocked when Hepburn and director Billy Wilder decided that “real Parisian dresses” would be used in many of the film’s most important scenes. Relegated to designing unimportant streetwear, Head was furious, and demanded sole credit for the film’s costumes. She was awarded the Oscar for Costume Design that year, which she accepted without mentioning Givenchy, and for the remainder of her career, she would pass off several of Givenchy’s designs in the film as her own.
Though Head was known throughout her career as having a propensity for lying in the most inappropriate situations, her obsession with claiming to have dressed Hepburn in the film is demonstrative of the film’s impact on the style of the time period. The “Sabrina” neckline, named for the shoulder-skimming boat-neck Givenchy used for a simple cocktail dress in the film, became a hugely popular phenomenon, as knock-offs appeared by designers around the world. Head claimed credit in print for inventing this style, and often showed the dress as part of her own collection. For the remainder of her life, Head would harbor a grudge against Hepburn, as she became a star largely as a result of her collaborations with Givenchy.



belongs to Sabrina project
tagged Audrey_Hepburn Edith_Head Sabrina costume_design film_costumes by kmkeller ...on 07-APR-06

Handyside, Fiona. "`Paris isn't for Changing`Planes; it's for Changing your Outlook': Audrey Hepburn as European Star in 1950s France." French Cultural Studies 14.3: 288

 

Fiona Handyside’s article follows the path of Audrey Hepburn’s career that resulted in her image as the quintessential “European star” to the American audience. In the 1950s, she was the antithesis of “busy contemporaries” such as Marilyn Monroe, with her generically “European” accent, slender frame, and air of confidence. This became the ultimate portrayal of a European woman as Americans wanted to believe it. Hepburn’s image as such was the product of two different forces: Hollywood studios, and European couture houses, namely that of Givenchy. Beginning with Sabrina, Givenchy and Hepburn formed a life-long partnership, and his clothing was present in many situations throughout her life. This made promotion for Sabrina and other films seamless, as the ties between designer and muse stretched across cinema, journalism, and advertising. Hepburn wore Givenchy in her 1954 wedding to Mel Ferrer, enabling further personification of her own “star style.”
The focus of Sabrina is the transformation of a young girl via Paris and Givenchy designs, culminating in a happy marriage. The progression of this plot uses not only narrative, but also the visual imagery of wardrobe to convince the viewer. In the famed scene at the train station, Hepburn’s Givenchy-designed gray suit owns the screen, as the unrecognized sophisticate stops William Holden’s character dead in his tracks. The clothing is placed above the narrative at this point, defining a character in a way that words could not. Sabrina was the beginning the association between Hepburn, Paris, and Givenchy: the city itself is the symbol of style, transformation, and the revelation of a new kind of femininity.